Beyond its luxury resorts and world-class surf, a war is being waged in Baja California (2024)

Behind Baja California peninsula'spicturesque coastline, a war is being waged on its back streets.

Violence between warring cartels over the city's lucrative drug trade has been playing out for years in the border region, and a recent escalation has seen the in-fighting spill over the border into the US.

The disappearance of three young men on a surfing and camping holiday earlier this week has thrown a global spotlight on crime in the Mexican region, and what is happening away from the tourist strip.

A history of violence

Mexico has been locked in a power struggle between about a dozen major cartels and its government since it began its "war on drugs" in 2006.

Due to its position on the US border, Baja California is home to many smuggling routes used by drug cartels to get to the US.

With groups warring over access to the routes, Mexican drug cartels have been an unchanged presence in the region for years and have a strong hold over locals due to their liberal use of violence and intimidation.

Despite the statistics, Visit Mexico said tourism in the Baja California region had rebounded from the pandemic with about 30 million visitors recorded last year.

Tourists continue to be enticed by Baja California's world-class surf, luxury hotels and scenic drives, with adventure tourism making up a large part of the market along the north-west coast.

The region markets itself as a "surfers paradise" with unique breaks and easy access to beaches and camping spots along the stretch of coastline.

However,seriouswarnings about the area began to sound in late 2022.

A paper by research initiative Justice in Mexico author Randall Ramos offered an insight into the state of play.

"Baja California has been subject to severe organised crime-related violence for decades, with wide-ranging implications," he said.

"In 2021, Baja California had the second highest number of homicides in Mexico, accounting for nearly one out of 10 homicides nationwide.

"Furthermore, Baja California ended 2021 with the second highest total number of reported homicides among all Mexican states."

Beyond its luxury resorts and world-class surf, a war is being waged in Baja California (1)

Baja California is also among theworst states in Mexico when it comes to violent crime and according to the National Institute of Statistics and Geography, 68.5 per cent of adults living in Baja California perceived their state to be unsafe in 2023.

Security experts also warned drug-fuelled violence was beginning to spill over the border into nearby state San Diego and El Paso, with police and other law officials under threat from cartel leaders making their way north.

International travel agencies began to mark the region as unsafe to travel to, and mid-last year, the mayor of Tijuana even moving to an army base after receiving threats from criminals.

The politicisation of Mexico's missing people

The search for the three missing men comes as humanitarian organisations advocate for better transparency around Mexico's missing person figures.

While tourist disappearances were often given international media attention, activists said the true number of missing people would include many locals in the Baja California area.

The number has been hotly debated between human rights organisations and the Mexican government, with activists claiming the number is likely to be much, much higher than reported.

The official number of missing people in Baja California offered by the state's Attorney General's Office following a federal review in 2023 is about 2,300 people.

However the UN Committee on Enforced Disappearances has previously raised concerns the official number does not ring true, as some families did not report disappearances for fear of reprisal or distrust of authorities.

Advocate María Luisa Aguilar told the Associated Press there was a real concern the government's methodology did not capture the full scope of the issue.

"The current government … is now concerned that the numbers are too high," she said.

"The main concern is not whether these records are under or over the real number … [this review] is being done more from a political perspective rather than to actually look at the main problem: having a crisis of this size."

Beyond its luxury resorts and world-class surf, a war is being waged in Baja California (2)

A march organised in honour of Mexico's missing people was organised in February 2022, which brought together both victims of violence and the loved ones of missing children.

They placed photos of loved ones on walls, with details of their individual disappearances written next to family photos.

March organiser Maria Herrera is also the mother of four missing children, and told a local news outlet the number of people missing in Mexico was a national concern.

"We're here [to say] violence is destroying us. It’s destroying this country," she said.

According to the Baja California Attorney General's Office, they were recently able to locate 16 people who had been reported missing.

It did not disclose the time frame or circ*mstances of their disappearances.

"All the people found are reported to be in good health condition," a statement said.

"Some have already been reunited with their relatives, while others remain in the custody of government institutions."

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The three men remain missing, and retired FBI agent and public safety advocate Phil Andrew said it was too early to determine what may have happened to them.

"The FBI, in coordination with Mexican authorities, will be analysing the digital information, their camping site and seeking witness details," he said.

"There are not indicators of a hostage or ransom situation here."

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Beyond its luxury resorts and world-class surf, a war is being waged in Baja California (2024)

FAQs

Why is Baja California moving away from Mexico? ›

Flexi Says: The Baja California Peninsula is moving away from mainland Mexico due to tectonic plate movements. This is caused by the San Andreas Fault system, which is a transform fault.

What is happening to the Baja California Peninsula? ›

The Baja California peninsula is now part of the Pacific Plate and is moving with it away from the East Pacific Rise in a north northwestward direction.

How fast is Baja California moving? ›

Along with the southern parts of the US state of California that are to the west of the San Andreas fault, Baja will continue to travel roughly 50 kilometers every million years, eventually sliding past Vancouver and Juneau and colliding with Anchorage in 50 million years or so.

Why is Baja California not part of the US? ›

When the Mexican-American War's military battles ended in September 1847, the United States had routed the Mexican army and occupied Mexico's capital, Mexico City. The U.S. wanted to annex from Mexico all of California, including Baja, but the eventual treaty ending the war left Baja California as part of Mexico.

What are the problems in Baja California? ›

The U.S. State Department last updated its longstanding travel advisories around the peninsula in August 2023. Those include a “Reconsider travel” warning for Baja, “due to crime and kidnapping,” and an, “Exercise increased caution due to crime,” for Baja Sur.

Which country owns Baja California? ›

Answer and Explanation: The Baja Peninsula is within the sovereign borders of Mexico. It is divided between two Mexican states, Baja California (the northern half) and Baja California Sur (the southern half). Of these, Baja California is the larger state, containing the peninsula's largest city, Tijuana.

Is it safe to travel in Baja right now? ›

Violent crime, including kidnapping and human trafficking, is a risk in parts of the country. As of August 2023, the U.S. State Department has issued a Level 3 classification for the state of Baja California, advising visitors to “reconsider travel,” specifically because of crime and kidnapping.

Is Baja California worth going to? ›

Baja is easy-going, wild-camping on beautiful beaches is simple, the food is great, local people are friendly, the whale and turtle watching is amazing, and the climate at this time of year is lovely. It's also very affordable for the traveller from USA/Canada/Europe.

What will eventually happen as Baja California and the rest of Mexico move apart? ›

Extension is causing the two plates to move apart and will eventually break Baja and the westernmost part of California off of North America. The Gulf of California will expand into a larger sea.

What is the best place to live in Baja California? ›

Best cities in Baja California, Mexico
  • Playas de Rosarito. #1 - Playas de Rosarito. Baja California, Mexico.
  • Las Delicias. #2 - Las Delicias. Baja California, Mexico.
  • Tijuana. #3 - Tijuana. ...
  • Ensenada. #4 - Ensenada. ...
  • Mexicali. #5 - Mexicali. ...
  • La Rumorosa. #6 - La Rumorosa. ...
  • Camalú #7 - Camalú ...
  • San Felipe. #8 - San Felipe.

Is it cheap to live in Baja California? ›

While Baja California is one of the most expensive parts of Mexico, it's still considerably cheaper than California. Homes can start from $200,000 and can go up to $800,000.

Is Baja California Mexico a good place to retire? ›

Mild and Pleasant Climate:

With over 300 days of sunshine annually, retirees can enjoy an outdoor lifestyle and partake in activities throughout the year. The region experiences warm summers and mild winters, creating an inviting atmosphere for retirees seeking comfortable weather conditions.

Why is Baja California splitting away from Mexico? ›

Baja California and the Sea of Cortés exist geographically because of plate tectonics. Movement of the Pacific and North American crustal plates began ripping the Baja peninsula and the western half of Southern California from mainland Mexico some six million years ago, opening up the Sea of Cortés in the process.

Do Americans live in Baja California? ›

San Felipe, Rosarito and Tijuana also have a large American population (second largest in Mexico after Mexico City), particularly for their cheaper housing and proximity to San Diego. Some 60,000 Oaxacans live in Baja California.

Does Baja California mean Lower California? ›

At some point this large region was divided into Alta (Upper) California—the continental portion which became the state of California, and Baja (Lower) California—the peninsular portion which remained as part of Mexico.

Why is Baja splitting away from mainland Mexico? ›

Baja California and the Sea of Cortés exist geographically because of plate tectonics. Movement of the Pacific and North American crustal plates began ripping the Baja peninsula and the western half of Southern California from mainland Mexico some six million years ago, opening up the Sea of Cortés in the process.

Why would people move away from Mexico? ›

On average, immigrants came from more advantageous background as the cost of migration limited poorer individuals from migrating. Economic inequality, rural poverty, significantly lower wages, and better opportunities have also played a role throughout the 20th century as factors pulling Mexicans to migrate to the US.

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